Thunderstorms and heavy rain during night, but surprisingly, despite ominous clouds amid the sunshine I slept well, but didn't sleep for as long as I usually do. I was up listening to the dawn chorus, so different from home, so many more birds, and such variety. The Merlin app identified eight different birds nearby, including a Golden Oriol, a Cetti's Warbler, a Streaked Fantailed Warbler and a Nightingale as well as Swift, Sparrow, Blackbird and Woodpigeon. I was able to confirm seeing the Nightingale as it sang loudly when perched atop the tallest tree across the road from the house, near enough to see its beak moving!
After breakfast, Veronica drove us inland, across country to the medieval hill village of Madremanya with a fourteenth century parish church next to a small plaza containing the town hall, crowning the hilltop. It's apparently a village well visited by knowledgable tourists, perhaps because it looks so unspoiled with its winding narrow streets and lack of commercial advertising. I didn't notice any shops, but there's likely to be a market. There must have been some shops in former times, but if you live there now a car is essential and shopping is done elsewhere in a retail park of your choice. Like many UK villages it's become a dormitory place, with all mod cons behind the well conserved ancient facade. There's a discreet hotel on the periphery opposite a modern community centre and parking area for residents and visitors. The streets are of necessity pedestrianised, but there's limited access to the plaza by the church.
The congregation come from far and wide by car, and all but the physically disabled walk the last 500 metres to church, like pilgrims. There were two dozen of us, and a few other visitors pop their heads in and take a look when they hear singing. There are occasional services here, but no regular parish Mass as there are too few priests covering a large area. Most church worship and social activity has been by Zoom since covid, with a monthly live gathering at Madremanya. This is the second year of vacancy and thanks to healthy lay leadership, the congregation stays together, and looks forward to the eventual appointment of a house for duty pastor, which is all that can be afforded now.
The monthly live service has been looked after by a priest who travels from Portugal and stays the weekend. This month it's me. What a privilege, to lead worship in such an ancient and beautiful place. It's acoustic is perfect for unaccompanied singing, but the Anglican congregation use hymns recorded with a choir, sung at an acceptable pace and pitch relayed through a well designed sound system which not only works in situ, but when a Sunday service of the Word is streamed on-line by those who organise it. Later in the day I was sent a YouTube link to the service I had taken. A nice souvenir!
After the service, three quarters of the congregation drove to nearby village of Corça for lunch in a well regarded restaurant on the village plaza by the parish church. I learned the house next to the church was where the previous chaplain had lived. It was large enough to host social events, and several people I spoke to over lunch recalled how well used it was. Anglican services were held on a few occasions next door but Madremanya offered more flexibility without regular services, and itself had history thanks to a few English residents in the village. I heard from several lay people who had been involved in maintaining the worship and social life of the chaplaincy since the beginning 30 years ago, a time when ex-pats in the region involved in construction and development projects in Catalunya began to settle.
Fifty years ago when the number of British and other Europeans settling in Spain began to increase on the southern Costas. Malaga was the only historic chaplaincy in the south outside of Gibraltar. Several new chaplaincies were founded in the seventies, supported by the Diocese in Europe. In the north, Barcelona was the only historic chaplaincy, British consular based from the mid 19th century, like Malaga. Although the Costa Brava had tourists, there was no impetus start a ministry to settlers. It was natural spontaneous grass roots Christian outreach in the nineties that led to the present chaplaincy beginning in the 1990s. The admirable testimonies of several long standing members present for today's service and lunch speak for themselves.
It was interesting to listen to a Finnish Lutheran woman speak of her involvement in ministry to children back home, continued when she found a home from home on the Costa Brava. Membership of our chaplaincies is invariable ecumenical and multi-cultural, pioneering the future of church in Europe. We are not alone in this, as Evangelical and Pentecostal outreach ministries have also developed over the decades since, but it's reasonable to say that Anglicans have pioneered pastoral outreach to expats since it first emerged as a priority over and above the established links the state diplomatic institutions.
As we were getting ready to leave Corça, there were rumbles of thunder and a few splashes of rain and the ominous clouds remained for the rest of the day, without bring more rain. Clare and I needed a walk when we got back to L'Escala, so we followed the main road towards the town centre and found nature reserve which is the fruit of restoring water courses taking water down to the bay at Platja del Rec. Again the bird song variety was amazing. A cetti's warbler landed and stopped beside me, but my TZ95 refused to focus on it and I lost the picture. I was luckier with a mallard ducking swimming right next to its mother.
We had supper when we returned, and then load of hassles uploading photos to look at because I didn't bring with me a tiny USB B to C adaptor. Eventually I transferred them to Veronica's Chromebook, she uploaded them, and sent me a sharing link which I could use to download them to my Chromebook, so I can edit them when I get around to it later. It was nearly midnight when we got to bed, but it's still eleven o'clock UK time according to my body clock thankfully. Losing a couple of hours sleep three nights in a row has yet to take its toll on me. Yet.