Ascending Sion

This afternoon, I took the train to Sion the capital of the Canton du Valais. It's one of Switzerland's oldest Christian centres. St Theodule, the Apostle of the Vaiais began evangelisation at Martigny, an already established Roman trading post. In 589, his episcopal successor moved the mission up the Rhone valley to settlement, subsequently called Sion, as there are two steep rocky promontories in the river plain, places for refuge from hostile tribes. 

Both promontories are surmounted by fortified buildings, the ruins of the 13th century Chateau de Tourbillon are on top of one, and on the other is the Basilica of our Lady of Valère the site of the original 12th century Cathedral and Bishop and Canons' residences. At the foot of the promontories is the well preserved 14th-15th century old town, where today's Cathedral, diocesan and episcopal headquarters are located. Next to the Cathedral is another 14-15th century church built in honour of St Theodule.

It started snowing not long after I got off the train and it snowed for the rest of my visit. It was just above freezing, so the snow was rather wet, making photography challenging. The old town is about a kilometre from the station, then there's a long steep climb to the summit of Valère. It's about 100 metres above the valley floor. I had difficulty finding the access road at first, but followed a steep unpaved footpath. When the snow began to persist underfoot, I lost my nerve and turned back. Then, I found the turning I'd missed and resumed the ascent, and reached the car park just where the rugged footpath emerged. At least I benefited from the extra exercise.

The Cathedral is enclosed by defensive walls. The out-buildings have become a museum celebrating five thousand years of human habitation in the Valais. The 11th century choir and sanctuary are out of bounds at the moment as a major restoration is under way, and just the nave is visitable. High on the west wall of the nave is the world famous organ, whose innards are said to date from 1430. The case looks as if it's more modern, however. I look forward to returning and making the climb on a future occasion, when the weather is better and the restoration completed.

The highlight of the evening again was another double episode of 'Engrenages / Spiral' on BBC Four. It never disappoints. So glad the telly here has several UK Freeview channels, having to sit through all ten episodes on catch-up TV when I return would be an emotional endurance exercise.