As I was preparing breakfast this morning, and pouring myself a cup of tea, the handle of the trendy glass bowl kettle broke spontaneously, causing the bowl to break on the counter and spill scalding water everywhere. Fortunately I avoided injury, but there was a lot of clearing up to do as a result, and for the time being we'll have to use a pan to boil water, Spanish style.
After breakfast, we heard the sound of distant drums. This was puzzling, as all the day's eight processions were due to set out at different times late afternoon. I think that so many clergy and church officers not involved with last minute preparation would be at the Cathedral for the Bishop's Mass of the Chrism. We didn't plan to attend this, but walked to the port instead, to investigate the the sound we'd heard.
Large crowds of people lined the barrier overlooking the Palmeria de las Sorpresas, where a Spanish navy vessel was moored, and the sound of martial music came from the quay below. The ship had arrived earlier from the Spanish colonial enclave of Ceuta in North Africa, with a detachment of Spanish Foreign Legionnaires, assigned to escort the Mena cofradia del Buen Muerte in procession this evening. It was impossible to get more than a passing glimpse of the band as they marched up and down the quay while the ship's commanding officers took the salute from the top deck. Then they marked off at double time through the Alameda over the bridge and off to their local barracks. Thankfully, being tall and benefiting from the camera's telephoto lens meant that later we were able to see on screen what we'd been unable to get more than a glimpse of in situ.
We walked over into the Old Town, and saw crowds of tens of thousands of people, many of them freshly arrived and either looking for a place for lunch, or trying to locate their assigned seats for the first day of the Triduum. As there was nothing more to see, we walked back, had a drink in one of the beach chirungitos that was open, then did some shopping and had lunch.
At seven in the evening, we held our Maundy Thursday Eucharist. Disappointingly only four people turned up. It's important to realise how difficult it is for members of a gathered congregation to get to church when the city's roads and public transport are so disrupted. The important thing is, to make the offer, and remember those who cannot make it.
Clare stayed in and sewed fabric loops on to all the kitchen towels, so that they could hang properly from the hooks provided. A little something to help make the kitchen work better. A new kettle will have to wait until Saturday, when all shops will resume normal trading. I walked to the Cathedral as the sun was setting, and spent a couple of hours there photographing the comings and goings, as part of the huge crowd that had gathered there.
A trona of Maria Desolata, standing at the foot of the cross, after the death of Jesus emerged from the main north door, and then it was closed for the night. A little later the trona of the Last Supper arrived and passed by, moving down the Calle Cister to solemn music, followed by another trona of Our Lady. I followed the latter as far as the Calle Alcazabilla, and then returned to the apartment. I was quite tired from all the exercise of the past five days, and needed some rest before tomorrow, the Great Day Viernes Santo. You can find today's photos here
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