Sutton Hoo makeover

Another late lazy morning, then lunch and a trip to Sutton Hoo for the rest of the afternoon. There have been significant changes since we last visited seven years ago. On a marble plinth next to the visitor centre stands a full sized iron replica of the skeleton of the burial ship, thirty metres long. On the plinth is a map of the interior of the burial ship showing where key artefacts were found and the outline of the place where the body of sixth century King Raedwald of East Anglia is thought to have been laid to rest. 

On our first visit there was a mock up of the interior with positions of treasures found in the exhibition hall. This has been replaced by displays of reproductions of the artefacts (the real ones are in the British Museum), all linked together with texts and maps explaining the personnel of the royal entourage, and what is known about ship burials. On the site there's also a burial mound for his unnamed queen who was a figure of influence and authority in royal affairs. Interpretation of her life adds an interesting modern perspective to the total narrative. 

I took the forty five minute walking route around the grounds of Tranmer House home of Edith Pretty whose interest led to excavations being commissioned at her expense. A sixty foot observation tower has been erected nest to the field in which the burial mounds stand. It gives an overview of the hilltop site, and the river Deben curving around two sides of the area on its journey inland. This helps make sense of the idea that the burial ship was sailed up the estuary, then dragged ashore and uphill to its final resting place, by the King's warriors. There's no evidence to suggest it was constructed on-site. 

Fortunately there was no rain, although it was dramatically cloudy, adding to the atmosphere of this special place. Because of covid it wasn't overcrowded with hundred of foreign tourists, although it was quite busy with Brits. I'm glad we were able to visit again. It seems to me that much has been achieved telling the story of the King and his funeral, working imaginatively with these elements for educational purposes.

Annie and Spiros arrived on their bikes from Kirton just after we got back to Felixstowe and organised a fish and chip supper for us all.Spiros showed us photos taken last summer when the two of them went on a cycling holiday to Rotterdam and Amsterdam, during the respite between lockdowns. It was good to see them both again. After they left I walked around town in the dark for three quarters of an hour, then decided to go to bed early to be ready to face tomorrow's six hour return trip to Cardiff.

Half term break - part four

Last time we stayed with Eddy and Anne, we made an abortive visit to the Sutton Hoo ship burial site, owned by the National Trust - it was closed. One fruit of recent tourism development enterprise here is revised seasonal opening times. The demand may have been there for ages, but there must be resources to ensure they can be met. This Saturday morning, we made a return visit

There is an excellent exhibition and interpretation centre, a restaurant and a shop serving visitors, run by a team of employees and volunteers. We visited the exhibition, lunched in the busy restaurant, walked around the perimeter of the Anglo-Saxon burial mound area, and then looked at Tranmer House, home of landowner Edith Pretty. Her archaeologically inclined estate manager Basil Brown instigated the investigation of those burial mounds, leading to discoveries that have transformed our understanding of the Anglo Saxon world and its culture. It was a fascinating afternoon of discovery.

We recovered at home from the chilling wind with tea and cake, and dined out at Bencotto's exemplary Italian restaurant in Felixstowe's old fire station, adapted for new purposes. We talked at length about the skill of seventh century craftsman and speculated about how they could achieve such intricate work without the aid of later technologies such as the magnifying glass.

Sunday morning, we got up early and went to the nine o'clock Communion service together at the Parish Church of St Ethelbert, King and Martyr in the neighbouring village of Falkenham. As with Kirton Parish Church in the old joint benefice, before they were grouped pastorally with three other neighbouring villages, Falkenham's history goes back at least to the eleventh century and the Domesday Book.

I say 'at least' because Falkenham Church is located on a mound one metre above the adjacent marshy plain, inviting speculation that the site may have been a pre-Christian burial ground. The church has a prominent tower with a ring of six bells. The 15-16th century roof beams are decorated with figures of angels and crowned humans, overlooking present worshippers, and who know who else, buried beneath.

Being there in prayer was a great way to celebrate the All Saints/Souls weekend, followed up with meals to remember, and more talk of the wonders of Sutton Hoo.

Photos of our half term journeys you'll find posted here