Sutton Hoo makeover

Another late lazy morning, then lunch and a trip to Sutton Hoo for the rest of the afternoon. There have been significant changes since we last visited seven years ago. On a marble plinth next to the visitor centre stands a full sized iron replica of the skeleton of the burial ship, thirty metres long. On the plinth is a map of the interior of the burial ship showing where key artefacts were found and the outline of the place where the body of sixth century King Raedwald of East Anglia is thought to have been laid to rest. 

On our first visit there was a mock up of the interior with positions of treasures found in the exhibition hall. This has been replaced by displays of reproductions of the artefacts (the real ones are in the British Museum), all linked together with texts and maps explaining the personnel of the royal entourage, and what is known about ship burials. On the site there's also a burial mound for his unnamed queen who was a figure of influence and authority in royal affairs. Interpretation of her life adds an interesting modern perspective to the total narrative. 

I took the forty five minute walking route around the grounds of Tranmer House home of Edith Pretty whose interest led to excavations being commissioned at her expense. A sixty foot observation tower has been erected nest to the field in which the burial mounds stand. It gives an overview of the hilltop site, and the river Deben curving around two sides of the area on its journey inland. This helps make sense of the idea that the burial ship was sailed up the estuary, then dragged ashore and uphill to its final resting place, by the King's warriors. There's no evidence to suggest it was constructed on-site. 

Fortunately there was no rain, although it was dramatically cloudy, adding to the atmosphere of this special place. Because of covid it wasn't overcrowded with hundred of foreign tourists, although it was quite busy with Brits. I'm glad we were able to visit again. It seems to me that much has been achieved telling the story of the King and his funeral, working imaginatively with these elements for educational purposes.

Annie and Spiros arrived on their bikes from Kirton just after we got back to Felixstowe and organised a fish and chip supper for us all.Spiros showed us photos taken last summer when the two of them went on a cycling holiday to Rotterdam and Amsterdam, during the respite between lockdowns. It was good to see them both again. After they left I walked around town in the dark for three quarters of an hour, then decided to go to bed early to be ready to face tomorrow's six hour return trip to Cardiff.