Yesterday afternoon a coach load of thirty of us, from Nerja, Malaga and Costa del Sol East chaplaioncies set out for Gibraltar to attend the Enthronement service for our new Euro-diocesan Bishop, Robert Innes. It was the first time for me to venture south and west beyond Marbella, and interesting to note the changes in terrain. The Rock of Gibraltar is occasionally visible in the distance driving along the coastal highway, then as the road descends towards La Linea, the neighbouring Spanish border town, it disappears from view, to reappear imposingly across the bay as one approaches the border.
We were able to enter with little delay, and were dropped off in a coach parking area just outside the town's fortified walls. The coastal plain is heavily built up with modern hotels, offices, warehouses, roads, and the outer defences thread through them. The Rock, at just under 1,400 feet high dominates the landscape, and modern architectural acretions to nothing to enhance the environment. It seemed strange entering the town and walking the main street, that despite the Spanishness of the older built environment, the English language is everywhere and prices are displayed in pounds sterling.
First duty for the clergy was to find the King's Chapel, where we were directed to robe for the service and procession to the Cathedral. This is a fine sixteenth century chapel attached to the Governor's residence, which started life as a convent.
The Royal Navy's resident Chaplain on the Rock is based here, Fr Mark Jackson, the fleet's oldest serving officer at 73, I was told. I was amazed to discover he was born and bred in Rhymney at the top of the same valley I was raised in. Bishop's Chaplain Archdeacon Meurig Llwyd Williams who was formerly in Bangor Diocese, and Paulime Smith, Chaplain in Almeria and formerly of Baglan in Llandaff diocese were also there from the Principality.
Fr Mark seemed a little bemused when clergy with luggage started to arrive. He'd been given little or no notice of the intention to use his place as a robing room. What had not been taken into account was the fact that the chapel itself is closed for repairs and most of his domain is a building site! But with characterstic good humour, all was coped with. A few people left their luggage in his inner office, and later on a couple of dozen of us crammed into both inner and outer offices to dress up for the service.
After arrival and finding our way about, there wasn't much time left for tourism, so we strolled the length of the main shopping street for a while, and then stopped for a coffee and a chat with Fr Geoff, Acting Archdeacon of Spain and Fr Patrick, Archdeacon of Eastern Europe, before returning to the King's Chapel to change, ready to process through the streets to the Cathedral, accompanied by two British Bobbies in uniform. Only the official photographer was allowed to take pictures durng the service so I only got a couple of exterior pictures beforehand. We didn't get around to visiting the building apart from the service. You can photographs of the celebration, courtesy of the Diocese in Europe press officer, Fr Paul Needle, here
The building is small, as cathedrals go, seating 5-600. Small though it is Gibraltar also has a Roman Catholic Cathedral as well. The architectural style of the Anglican church building is that of 'Mozarabic' revival, reminding me of the seminary chapel in Malaga, visited last March. It was built in 1832, consecrated in 1838 and given Cathedral status in 1842, when the diocese of Gibraltar was created. In size and scale it reminded me of St Mary's Bute Street, dating from a similar era.
Worshippers came from as far afield as Helsinki, Morocco, Paris, Vienna and London, about 350 in all. The Bishop himself, it was noted, communicated every single person to come to the altar, a real pastor's touch. It was good to hear him affirm the unusual gifts and calling of expatriate chaplains, who must deal with so much diversity and change as a matter of course. You can find Bishop Robert's sermon to read here.
After the Bishop had blessed Gibralter from the Cathedral porch, we processed back to the King's Chapel. The reception, with drinks and a finger buffet, was held in the lovely enclosed courtyard of the Governor's residency next door. It was still lively as we departed for our coach at nine thirty, with Bishop Robert chatting with well wishers, holding his episcopal crozier, so that people would know where he was in the ever moving crowd of people socialising and networking. Altogether it was a lovely occasion.
The return border crossing wasn't quite so effortless. We were required to get out of the coach with all our possessions (for the Spanish border guards to inspect the coach for contraband, so the story goes) and walk through the control zone, then wait half an hour for the coach to come through the traffic jam of vehicles for inspection. Our passports weren't checked nor were we required to be searched at that late hour, when it seems the guards were watching footie indoors in TV. At least there was a cool and pleasant breeze while we waited. The Gibraltar peninsula is a little cooler than the mainland, due to the winds that blow up and down the Straights. I can't imagine what it would have been like had it rained, or been in winter. It was nearly midnight when the coach dropped us off in Los Boliches, and we were glad of the brisk walk uphill back to the Chaplaincy house, before late late supper and bed.
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